Discover the sites of the sultans by day, people-watch from funky cafes at sunset and belly-dance through bars by night with this detailed and dynamic guide as your companion. 11 full-colour maps, plus plans of major sites; how to carouse at a meyhane, puff a nargileh and find the best hamam; grand to grungy - where to eat and stay for all budgets and tastes; essential advice on buying a carpet, hunting for bargains and splashing out big-time; trips beyond Istanbul to Gallipoli, Troy and historic Edirne; 9 walks expertly designed to unlock all the city`s secrets